Lash artists and their clients often want the same thing... fuller looking lash extensions! There's so many ways we can achieve that, so let's get into each technique and then later on, I'll do specific blog posts and YouTube videos for each one. That way we can really elaborate and discuss them in depth, in order for you to be able to implement them in your services.
The most obvious way to create a fuller set, is with COVERAGE. The more lash extensions you apply, the fuller the result will look. The more natural lashes your client has will affect how many lash extensions you’re able to place, but the goal should always be for your client to leave with 100% coverage, if that’s what you both desire. The amount of coverage you’re able to provide though, depends on the time frame you’re working with and the speed you’re able to have.
SPEED comes with time and should never compromise the quality of your work. We want to be able to work as quickly as possible, but only as long as our application is still neat and non damaging. The faster you are, the more lashes you will be able to place. Let’s get into how you can achieve more speed, and remember, some of these tips deserve their own dedicated segments, so be on the look out for future blog posts and videos where we really go in depth.
Over time you’ll definitely get faster, but you can also improve your timing with PRACTICE that you can do while you're off the clock. My best advice for practicing is getting a mannequin doll head to apply thin strip lashes to, mimicking a client, or by applying lash extensions to a sponge. Any way you decide to practice, consider being intentional with what you're practicing towards while building the speed you need as well. So for example, if you're struggling with making narrow fans or a certain # of dimension, create those specific fans over and over to help build that muscle memory. When you're servicing your clients and you're able to do it with no problem, you'll know you're reaping the benefits of all that hard work you did at home!
TAPING TECHNIQUES are helpful in many ways as a lash artist and can basically act as a third hand, by helping you move lashes out of the way and manipulating the lash line, in order to give you access to natural lashes you’d have a hard time getting to otherwise. I've literally used multiple pieces of detacked tape before to tape lashed lashes out of the way, to get to difficult areas or when the lash line is super dense naturally. It's basically a way to help further your isolation skills. The more isolated the lash line is, the easier it is (and therefor faster) to get to every lash. Which goes back to the #1 tip, coverage!
Your TIME FRAME is everything! If you're allowing the proper amount of time to work with, your clients will inevitably end up fuller. Don’t limit yourself or your results by not giving your client the time it takes to give them more coverage. Every minute you spend lashing is SO many more lash extensions you're able to apply. Consider extending your appointment time frames if you feel they aren't currently long enough. A general rule of thumb is 3 hours for a Volume or Mixed Full Set, 1.5 hours for their fills and 2 hours for a Classic Full Set and 1 hour for the fill. If you already know you need to extend your time windows, but your menu isn't structured appropriately for it, check out this video I made that touches on pricing yourself according to your worth and earning what you feel your time is valued at. SERIOUSLY, check it out either way, you deserve it!
If your lash ADHESIVE DRY TIME is actually the thing slowing you down, because you’re waiting so long for it to cure before you’re able to remove your isolation hold and move on... consider switching to a faster glue, adjusting the amount you’re picking up, and/or the environment specs of the room. Not sure what I mean? Watch this video about all my best adhesive and retention tips!
Ensuring PROPER APPLICATION is crucial in many ways, but specifically the distance of the placement in regards to fullness. If you’re placing the lash extensions too far away from the lash line, you’ll immediately be making your sets look thinner, no matter how much coverage you’re providing. Think about getting highlights in your hair, how would you feel (and look) if you walked out of your appointment and you're already looking like you’ve got roots. Nobody wants the look of regrowth, especially right after you’ve just had the service done. What happens visually though, is when you’re looking at the client straight on, and what you primarily see when someone’s eye is open, is the lash line. If the lash line is "see through", meaning the lash extension's base is far away from the lash line, we see that empty space rather than dark fullness. That eyeliner effect at the baseline is a big part of what makes lashes look super full. Which is a big part of why we do fills. When the lash extensions grow out, not only are they more spare from having lost so many, they're also thinner looking because you now have that visual regrowth at the lash line. You're seeing the thinner natural lashes at the base, rather than thicker, darker looking fans of lash extensions. So remember, only be far enough away that you're not touching the skin, but no further than that.
LASHING IN LAYERS is super fun and gives us so much room for creativity as lash artists, but it also helps us achieve fuller looking lash extensions! The reason is, we all have three rows of natural lashes, the top, the middle and the bottom. If we’re successfully lashing all three, we’ll certainly achieve fullness. Not to mention, again, when we look at someone from the front view, we see their lash line and their LOWEST layer of lashes first and most visibly. If we’re only lashing the top and maybe the middle, (usually the case because they're easier to get to) our clients will automatically look thinner from the front view, the view everyone sees and what they see when they look in the mirror. Also, playing with mixing curls and the lengths within the layers can really impact our styling and our overall texture, but by doing that, you can also create different illusions of how full they are! That topic definitely needs a blog post and YouTube video of it's own, (you can really get me going on that subject) but for now, just remember to aim for all three layers, especially the bottom, when you're trying to achieve a fuller looking set!
If you’re doing Volume, the higher the FAN DIMENSION, meaning the more extensions we have in each fan we place, the fuller the lashes will look. Consider increasing your dimension if you’re looking for density. If you’re doing Classics, Flat lashes are a great way to give the look of a thicker extension without the added weight. They’re oval instead of round, so they appear thicker. If you struggle with higher D fans, go back to practice! Build the muscle memory so it becomes second nature to bust out 5D+ fans when you're with a client!
Speaking of FAN CHARACTERISTICS, the width of your fan is a player here too! Wider fans have more space between each lash within the fan, so when your set is full of wide fans, you see those windows of space more than you see the density that narrow fans would give you. If you're looking for dark, full sets... go narrow! Oh, and keep those fans open! Don't apply closed fans. We want them narrow to give that density, but we need the fluff too. Closed fans look like sticks in a full set, which in turn gives you a thinner looking result.
I hate to break this to your clients, but SHORTER LASHES always create fuller looking lash extensions. It goes back to the spaces between the lashes... the longer your fan is, the more space you're seeing towards the tips. The density of a fan is near the bundle or the base, so a shorter fan is more of that darkness than the lightness. Does that make sense? The video version of this post breaks it down easier if you need that visual explanation. Anyways, go short AND, don't make your fans as Y's, rather deep V's, to ensure you aren't giving that stick like (thinnnnn) appearance near the lash line. I swear... I'm gunna do a post and video all about fan characteristics, promise!
There you have it! The key components to making sure your lash extensions look fuller! Stay tuned for the breakdown of each technique that will include tutorials you can implement into your craft! Thanks for reading and happy lashing!!